Urus Este

Climbing Climbs over 5,000 m

Urus Este

The gentlest of the Ishinca valley summits, Urus Este is a half-day climb from base camp on scree and a small glacier. It is the natural first step in a progression that continues with Ishinca and Tocllaraju from the same camp.

  • 3 days
  • Moderate
  • PD- / F+
  • 5,420 m
Duration
3 days
Summit
5,420 m
Difficulty
Moderate
Grade
PD- / F+
Best season
May to September

Urus is a cluster of three summits on the north side of the Quebrada Ishinca, and the eastern top is the one climbers normally visit. From the grassy base camp at around 4,350 m the route gains the summit in four to six hours, first up a steep trail and rocky slopes and finally across a short glacier to a snow summit.

The climb has very little objective hazard and only brief sections where crampons are essential, which makes it an excellent place to learn the rhythm of an alpine start without a long, committing day. The exposure on the final ridge is modest but gives a real summit feeling.

The main attraction is the view: Tocllaraju's elegant west ridge, the wide glacier of Ishinca, Ranrapalca's north face and Palcaraju fill the horizon. Many climbers combine Urus with Ishinca over four or five days, or add Tocllaraju for a full week in the valley.

Highlights

  • Easiest summit in the Ishinca valley
  • Half-day round trip from a comfortable base camp
  • Great vantage point over Tocllaraju, Ishinca and Ranrapalca
  • Ideal acclimatisation peak before 6,000 m objectives

Day by day

Itineraries are a guide, not a contract: weather, acclimatisation and group pace can change the plan. Your guide makes the call on the mountain.

  1. Day 1

    Huaraz – Pashpa – Ishinca base camp (approx. 4,350 m)

    Drive about 1.5 hours to the village of Pashpa (or Collón). Walk 4 to 5 hours up the Quebrada Ishinca through queñual woodland to base camp while donkeys carry the gear.

  2. Day 2

    Urus Este summit (5,420 m) – base camp

    Start around 3 am. Climb the trail and rock slopes to the glacier, then the final snow slopes to the summit (4 to 6 hours). Return to base camp for lunch and rest.

  3. Day 3

    Base camp – Pashpa – Huaraz

    Walk down the valley (about 3 hours) and drive back to Huaraz.

What's included

  • Certified mountain guide (ratio to be confirmed, typically 1:2 on technical peaks)
  • Private transport Huaraz to trailhead and back
  • Donkeys or porters for group gear to base camp
  • Base-camp cook and all meals on the mountain
  • Tents (sleeping, kitchen, dining), sleeping pads
  • Group climbing gear: ropes, pickets, ice screws, anchors
  • First-aid kit and radio or satellite communication

Not included

  • Huascarán National Park entrance fee
  • Hotel nights and restaurant meals in Huaraz
  • Personal climbing equipment (boots, crampons, axe, harness, helmet - rental available)
  • Sleeping bag
  • Travel, medical and rescue insurance
  • Tips for guide and staff
  • Transport Lima - Huaraz

Fitness & experience

No previous climbing experience needed. Good hiking fitness and two or three days of acclimatisation in Huaraz. Summit day is 6 to 9 hours round trip with roughly 1,000 m of ascent, mostly on trail and scree with a short glacier section.

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