Climbing

A compact snow peak above the Punta Olímpica road that gives a real summit in a single day with almost no approach. It is the ideal first taste of steep snow and glacier travel for anyone warming up for bigger objectives in the Cordillera Blanca.

The closest glaciated summit to Huaraz, Vallunaraju is the classic two-day acclimatisation climb of the Cordillera Blanca. A night at moraine camp above the Llaca valley puts you on the summit ridge for sunrise with Huascarán and the whole central range laid out in front of you.

The gentlest of the Ishinca valley summits, Urus Este is a half-day climb from base camp on scree and a small glacier. It is the natural first step in a progression that continues with Ishinca and Tocllaraju from the same camp.

Ishinca is the friendly glacier peak that gives the valley its name: a broad snow dome reached by a moraine ridge, a glacial lake and an uncomplicated crevassed glacier. It is the standard place to learn rope-team travel before stepping up to Tocllaraju.

Pisco Oeste is the most climbed peak in the Cordillera Blanca, and for good reason: a moderate glacier route leads to a summit ringed by Huascarán, Huandoy, Chacraraju, Artesonraju and Alpamayo. It is the classic 'first big peak' of the Llanganuco valley.

Yanapaccha hides just east of the Portachuelo de Llanganuco and packs a short but steep summit pitch into a compact three-day outing. It is the classic step between beginner glacier peaks and the harder faces of Alpamayo or Chopicalqui.

A fluted pyramid of snow that has been called the most beautiful mountain in the world, Alpamayo is the dream climb of the Cordillera Blanca. Its southwest face is a sustained ice route that rewards strong, experienced climbers with one of the most photogenic summits anywhere.

The graceful pyramid at the head of the Ishinca valley is the most accessible 6,000 m peak in the Cordillera Blanca with real technical interest. Its northwest ridge mixes glacier travel, serac zones and short steep pitches into a memorable summit day.

Copa is a broad, gently angled 6,000 m giant that rewards endurance rather than technical skill. A long glacier plateau and wide summit slopes make it one of the most achievable high summits in the Andes for strong, well-acclimatised climbers.

Chopicalqui's southwest ridge is one of the great classic lines of the Cordillera Blanca: a long, elegant snow crest leading to a 6,354 m summit next door to Huascarán. It is a demanding but achievable step up for climbers who have done Pisco or Tocllaraju.

The perfect pyramid above Laguna Parón is widely believed to be the mountain in the Paramount Pictures logo. Its southeast face is a long, sustained snow climb of consistent angle that finishes on an airy summit, a true test of fitness and technique.

Alpamayo's quieter neighbour across the col, Quitaraju offers a long north-face snow climb to a summit just over 6,000 m. Climbed from the same high camp, it is the natural partner to Alpamayo or a superb objective in its own right.

The highest mountain in Peru and the highest point in the tropics, Huascarán Sur is the big prize of the Cordillera Blanca. The Garganta route is not extremely technical, but the altitude, the icefall and the long summit day make it a serious expedition.