Tocllaraju dominates the view from the Ishinca base camp and is the logical culmination of a progression through Urus and Ishinca. From base camp a trail climbs moraine and slabs to a high camp on the glacier at around 5,100 m, from which the summit is attempted in a single long push.
The normal route follows the northwest ridge. After threading a bergschrund and a zone of seracs the ridge broadens, then narrows again toward the top where two or three short pitches of 55 to 65 degree snow lead to the final summit slope. Crevasse conditions vary greatly from year to year, and the last pitch can involve a short vertical step in lean seasons.
The mountain demands solid cramponing and the ability to move efficiently on a rope team at altitude, but no extreme ice climbing. The summit view across Palcaraju, Ranrapalca and north to Huascarán is among the finest in the range.
