Guided ascents of thirteen Cordillera Blanca peaks, from a first 5,000-metre summit to Huascarán, the highest mountain in Peru.

Climbing Climbs over 6,000 m

Chopicalqui

Chopicalqui's southwest ridge is one of the great classic lines of the Cordillera Blanca: a long, elegant snow crest leading to a 6,354 m summit next door to Huascarán. It is a demanding but achievable step up for climbers who have done Pisco or Tocllaraju.

  • 5 days
  • Technical
  • AD+
  • 6,354 m
Duration
5 days
Summit
6,354 m
Difficulty
Technical
Grade
AD+
Guide ratio
1:2
Best season
June to August

Chopicalqui is the fourth-highest peak in the range and shares its approach with Pisco from the Llanganuco valley. From the road a trail climbs to a base camp in the quebrada, then to a moraine camp around 4,900 m and a high camp on the col of the southwest ridge at roughly 5,400 to 5,600 m.

Summit day follows the undulating ridge through crevasse fields and short ice cliffs. Below the top the crux arrives: a steep snow slope of around 60 to 70 degrees and, in most seasons, a short wall that can approach vertical. The ridge narrows toward the summit and the exposure is considerable. The descent reverses the route with downclimbing and a few abseils.

The effort is repaid by a summit perched directly beside the twin tops of Huascarán, with Huandoy, Pisco and Chacraraju filling the opposite skyline.

Highlights

  • Classic southwest ridge with sustained alpine character
  • Summit directly beside Huascarán
  • Steep snow crux and ice wall below the top
  • Often combined with Pisco for acclimatisation

Day by day

Itineraries are a guide, not a contract: weather, acclimatisation and group pace can change the plan. Your guide makes the call on the mountain.

  1. Day 1

    Huaraz – Llanganuco – base camp (approx. 4,300 m)

    Drive 3 to 4 hours via Yungay into the Llanganuco valley. Walk 2 to 3 hours to the Chopicalqui base camp.

  2. Day 2

    Base camp – moraine camp (approx. 4,900 m)

    Climb through the moraine to the camp at the glacier edge (3 to 4 hours). Skills review.

  3. Day 3

    Moraine camp – high camp (approx. 5,500 m)

    Cross the glacier and climb to the col camp on the southwest ridge (4 to 5 hours).

  4. Day 4

    Summit (6,354 m) – moraine camp

    Alpine start. Follow the ridge over crevasses and ice steps to the steep summit slope and ice wall (6 to 8 hours up). Descend with abseils to high camp and continue to moraine camp.

  5. Day 5

    Moraine camp – base camp – Huaraz

    Walk down to the road and drive back to Huaraz.

What's included

  • Certified mountain guide (ratio to be confirmed, typically 1:2 on technical peaks)
  • Private transport Huaraz to trailhead and back
  • Donkeys or porters for group gear to base camp
  • Base-camp cook and all meals on the mountain
  • Tents (sleeping, kitchen, dining), sleeping pads
  • Group climbing gear: ropes, pickets, ice screws, anchors
  • First-aid kit and radio or satellite communication

Not included

  • Huascarán National Park entrance fee
  • Hotel nights and restaurant meals in Huaraz
  • Personal climbing equipment (boots, crampons, axe, harness, helmet - rental available)
  • Sleeping bag
  • Travel, medical and rescue insurance
  • Tips for guide and staff
  • Transport Lima - Huaraz

Fitness & experience

Previous alpine experience at AD level or equivalent is required: confident front-pointing on 60 degree snow, familiarity with abseiling and crevasse rescue, and a recent summit above 5,500 m. Summit day is 12 to 14 hours at high altitude.

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