Guided ascents of thirteen Cordillera Blanca peaks, from a first 5,000-metre summit to Huascarán, the highest mountain in Peru.

Climbing Climbs over 5,000 m

Ichic Ulta (Chico Ulta)

A compact snow peak above the Punta Olímpica road that gives a real summit in a single day with almost no approach. It is the ideal first taste of steep snow and glacier travel for anyone warming up for bigger objectives in the Cordillera Blanca.

  • 1 day
  • Moderate
  • PD / AI1-2
  • 5,200 m
Duration
1 day
Summit
5,200 m
Difficulty
Moderate
Grade
PD / AI1-2
Best season
May to September (dry season)

Ichic Ulta, also written Chico Ulta or Ulta Chico, sits at the head of the Quebrada Ulta directly above the high point of the Punta Olímpica road between Carhuaz and Chacas. Because the road climbs to roughly 4,700 m, you can step out of the vehicle and be on the glacier within an hour, which makes this one of the few genuine technical summits in the range that fits comfortably into a single day from Huaraz.

The climb itself is short but engaging. From the base of the glacier you ascend steep snow, work through a narrow chute that may hold a mixed step or two depending on the year, and emerge into an upper bowl beneath the summit ridge. The final ridge is often heavily corniced and the last metres can reach 60 degrees in a heavy snow year, so the guide will set pickets or screws as conditions dictate.

The reward is a close-up panorama of Nevado Ulta, Contrahierbas and the Chopicalqui–Huascarán massif, plus the satisfaction of a true alpine summit without the multi-day logistics. Many climbers use it as a skills refresher and acclimatisation outing before Pisco, Ishinca or Tocllaraju.

Highlights

  • True technical summit in one day from Huaraz
  • Shortest glacier approach in the Cordillera Blanca
  • Steep snow and a short mixed chute to practise crampon and axe technique
  • Front-row views of Nevado Ulta, Contrahierbas and Huascarán

Day by day

Itineraries are a guide, not a contract: weather, acclimatisation and group pace can change the plan. Your guide makes the call on the mountain.

  1. Day 1

    Huaraz – Punta Olímpica – summit – Huaraz

    Very early departure from Huaraz by private vehicle through Carhuaz and up the Quebrada Ulta to the Punta Olímpica road (about 3 hours). Short hike over scree to the glacier edge, rope up and climb steep snow and the chute to the summit ridge. Descend the same way and drive back to Huaraz in the afternoon.

What's included

  • Certified mountain guide (ratio to be confirmed, typically 1:2 on technical peaks)
  • Private transport Huaraz to trailhead and back
  • Box lunch and hot drinks
  • Group climbing gear: rope, pickets, ice screws
  • First-aid kit and radio

Not included

  • Huascarán National Park entrance fee
  • Hotel nights and restaurant meals in Huaraz
  • Personal climbing equipment (boots, crampons, axe, harness, helmet - rental available)
  • Sleeping bag
  • Travel, medical and rescue insurance
  • Tips for guide and staff
  • Transport Lima - Huaraz

Fitness & experience

Good general fitness and at least two or three days of acclimatisation in Huaraz (a hike to Laguna Churup or Wilcacocha is ideal). No previous climbing experience is required; the guide teaches crampon, ice-axe and rope technique on the glacier. Expect about 5 to 7 hours of walking and climbing with roughly 500 m of ascent.

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