Urus Este

Climbing Climbs over 6,000 m

Copa (Nevado Copa Sur)

Copa is a broad, gently angled 6,000 m giant that rewards endurance rather than technical skill. A long glacier plateau and wide summit slopes make it one of the most achievable high summits in the Andes for strong, well-acclimatised climbers.

  • 4 days
  • Demanding
  • PD+ / AD-
  • 6,188 m
Duration
4 days
Summit
6,188 m
Difficulty
Demanding
Grade
PD+ / AD-
Guide ratio
1:2
Best season
May to September

Rising above the villages of Vicos and Marcará, Copa is a massive mountain with twin summits, and the southern top is the one normally climbed. The approach follows a trail past the Laguna Lejiacocha to a base camp around 4,400 m, then crosses moraine to a high camp at about 5,200 m at the edge of the glacier.

The normal route climbs a couloir onto a wide glacier plateau near 5,100 m, then ascends long moderate slopes toward the summit. The technical difficulty is low, but the glacier is heavily crevassed and the route changes each year, so careful rope-team travel is essential. The altitude and the length of the summit day are the true challenges.

With its sweeping views of Huascarán, Hualcán and the Callejón de Huaylas far below, Copa is an excellent choice for climbers who want their first 6,000 m summit without steep ice.

Highlights

  • Non-technical route to a 6,000 m summit
  • Vast glacier plateau and wide-open summit slopes
  • Close-up views of Huascarán and Hualcán
  • Quick access from Huaraz via Vicos

Day by day

Itineraries are a guide, not a contract: weather, acclimatisation and group pace can change the plan. Your guide makes the call on the mountain.

  1. Day 1

    Huaraz – Vicos – base camp (approx. 4,400 m)

    Drive about 1.5 hours to Vicos. Walk 5 to 6 hours up to base camp near Laguna Lejiacocha.

  2. Day 2

    Base camp – high camp (approx. 5,200 m)

    Climb moraine and rock to the glacier edge and establish high camp (4 to 5 hours).

  3. Day 3

    Summit (6,188 m) – base camp

    Alpine start. Cross the crevassed plateau and the long summit slopes to the top (6 to 8 hours). Descend to high camp and continue to base camp.

  4. Day 4

    Base camp – Vicos – Huaraz

    Walk down to Vicos and return to Huaraz.

What's included

  • Certified mountain guide (ratio to be confirmed, typically 1:2 on technical peaks)
  • Private transport Huaraz to trailhead and back
  • Donkeys or porters for group gear to base camp
  • Base-camp cook and all meals on the mountain
  • Tents (sleeping, kitchen, dining), sleeping pads
  • Group climbing gear: ropes, pickets, ice screws, anchors
  • First-aid kit and radio or satellite communication

Not included

  • Huascarán National Park entrance fee
  • Hotel nights and restaurant meals in Huaraz
  • Personal climbing equipment (boots, crampons, axe, harness, helmet - rental available)
  • Sleeping bag
  • Travel, medical and rescue insurance
  • Tips for guide and staff
  • Transport Lima - Huaraz

Fitness & experience

Very good endurance and complete acclimatisation are required; a previous 5,000 m summit is strongly recommended. Technical requirements are modest (basic crampon and rope-team skills), but summit day can last 10 to 14 hours.

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